Nick Walton finds his scepticism misplaced on a recent business class flight with Air France to Paris.

Background

A member of the SkyTeam alliance, the French national carrier services 36 destinations in France and operates worldwide scheduled passenger and cargo services to 168 destinations in 78 countries. It has also been plagued by industrial action and poor service standards for years, despite heavy investment in new aircraft and livery.

The Lounge
After long waits to check-in, I was directed to the Qantas Lounge, rather than Air France’s own SkyTeam lounge at gate 60. Located on the same level as security, the Qantas Lounge is one of Hong Kong International’s newest, and a signature for the Australian airline. I took advantage of the culinary offerings of the Spice Temple by acclaimed Aussie chef Neil Perry, as well as a few well-made drinks at the stylish long bar. The lounge was at capacity, making it tricky to find a table to sit at, but the ambience remained refined and serene.

The Qantas Lounge at HKIA

Onboard

After an efficient boarding process onto one of the airline‘s three-class Boeing 777-300ER, which had clearly been worked hard, I settled into my seat, one of 67 ‘Affaires’ business class seats. Initial impressions weren’t great; the angled-flat seat, with its 61-inch pitch and 21.5-inch width, lacked USB connectivity and storage space (compared to the airline’s newer product) and was scratched and chipped. The ‘noise-reduction’ headphones looked ancient but fortunately, I bring my own, which I eventually I got plugged into the all-but-hidden socket.

But it was the crew which surprisingly turned things around; they were charming despite the late hour, dishing out chic amenity kits that were refreshingly big on practicality rather than just style, bottles of Evian, and glasses of Champagne Deutz Brut Classic, one of a series of wines selected by Paolo Basso, voted world’s best sommelier in 2013.

We departed on time, by which point I was already halfway into a movie on my tablet (Air France is one of an increasing number of airlines that let you use small mobile devices throughout the flight), the old seat issue quite forgotten.

Dining

On the 12-hour 30 minute night flight, the crew were quick to offer a meal service, knowing passengers were keen to get some sleep. There is an Express Option for just that reason and a Café Croissant option for those who prefer breakfast to go. On our flight, passengers were offered a starter of duck foie gras with bluefin tuna and black pepper; followed by grilled tournedos of beef with mustard sauce and potatoes au gratin; fettuccini with zucchini, mustard seeds and enoki mushrooms; or Gong Bao chicken with steamed rice and dried chillies. The beef was perfectly
cooked and the elegance and pageantry of the meal’s presentation, complete with French wines, was more akin to a stylish restaurant than a plane at 40,000ft.

Entertainment

Air France’s inflight entertainment system is more than adequate for a long-haul flight, but the screen is smaller and of a lower quality than the newer business class product and the movie selection is limited. However, the airline is making investment in new aircraft that promise a better entertainment offering.

Service

The airline is known for surly cabin attendants, but miracles can happen. During our flight, a veteran crew showed the best of French hospitality and there was none of the arrogance or complacency Air France staff are often labelled with on the likes of TripAdvisor.

Arrival

After a surprisingly good sleep under thick, comfortable blankets, we descended into Paris on schedule. I opted for the express breakfast although many passengers enjoyed omelettes with bacon and mushrooms; crepes with cinnamon and poached apples; or the assorted cold cuts.

Summary

Leading airlines are always trying to innovate and sometimes that means passengers end up with an older product rather than the latest, but authentic, surprisingly warm hospitality and menus that showcase the best of French culinary tradition more than made up for older seats on this flight.

Air France business class Hong Kong-Paris return from US$3,320 per person. www.airfrance.com

Note: The author travelled as a fully-paid guest without the airline’s knowledge

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