Once a major force in the Asia airline scene, Korean Air has invested in new aircraft to help bolster its position. Nick Walton flies Korean Air Business Class to find out for himself if the airline’s efforts are paying off on a recent flight between Toronto and Seoul.

Background

Curious, odd, premium-light – these are all previous descriptions of business class on Korean Air’s 787-9 aircraft, with which the carrier links Seoul with long-haul destinations. With virtually identical seats in both first-class and business, the airline hopes the software will be a differentiator.

Check-In/The Lounge

After a speedy check-in at dedicated Sky Priority counters at Toronto Pearson International’s Terminal 3, we made our way through to the KLM/Air France Lounge. While the lounge was a quiet and serene space for our mid-morning flight, with great views across the apron, hot and cold snacks – including eggs, sausages and Thai green curry soup – and great coffee, it appeared not to be staffed, although from time to time we could hear banging and movement from the kitchen beyond.

Boarding

The boarding process at gate C35 was rather chaotic as the crew tried to make room for 15 elderly wheelchair-bound passengers while able-bodied passengers crowded the boarding area. We couldn’t blame them – staff were surly and abrupt and the whole scene was more akin to a train station at rush hour then the beginning of a 14-hour flight. Eventually, after a significant delay, business class passengers boarded the three-class Korean Air 787-9, which featured six seats in First Class, 18 in Prestige business class and 247 in Economy. Crew offer glasses of water and juice as the plane fills, and eventually, we departed Toronto one hour 40 minutes late, a delay that was never mentioned the by crew or the flight deck.

The Seat

The first thing you notice boarding the 787 is how similar the First Class seat is to the Prestige business class seat, although I am sure there are some subtle differences to warrant the extra expense (while they’re both 20.8-inches wide, First has a slightly larger pitch of 82-inches and a larger monitor).

The first thing I noticed sitting down was how ever-so-slightly claustrophobic the seat was, especially at shoulder height. I’m used to 777s between Asia and North America and was surprised that the seat felt narrow. The sense of narrowness is accentuated when the centre privacy screen is raised, but fortunately, I didn’t have a seatmate on this flight and was able to drape my elbow over the centre console trucker style.

Ready for Flight

The cabin has a configuration of 2-2-2, with pairs of seats by the windows slightly staggered, while there are no overhead bins above the centre seats. Minimalist, in off white and turquoise, the seats are modern but lack storage space – there’s not even anywhere to put a pre-departure drink. I think the airline expected passengers to use the little arm rest between seat and seat shell but a little shelf folding out from the thick centre console would have been an easy fix. Window seats offer more privacy so bear that in mind when you book.

At my seat was a thick blanket, noise-reduction headphones, and a Davi amenity kit with the usual accoutrement. I was a little frustrated that the headphone jack was so hidden away that my Bose adapter wouldn’t fit so I was forced to use Korean Air’s rather tinny headphones.

Storage space seems to be an issue throughout the plane as the empty first class cabin’s overhead bins are quickly filled with the overflow from business and economy.

Lunch Service

After reaching cruising altitude, the crew began the lunch service, which started with a herbed cream cheese and zucchini roll; and a seared prawn and scallop salad with a tomato and celery salsa. For the main, we were given a choice of the airline’s signature Bibimbap, with minced beef and seasonal vegetables, served with sesame oil and Gochujang, a rather addictive spicy pepper paste; grilled beef tenderloin with rosemary sauce, potato mash and vegetables; and pan-seared cod with tomato basil sauce and boiled potato. A cauliflower cream soup was also paired with western choices. The Bibimbap is always a great dish, especially with that delectable chilli paste and my only niggle would be that the portion was a little small. I matched my meal with a glass (ok, two) of Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut, the airline’s signature champagne.

Mains were followed by a cheese plate with camembert, cambozola, and Saint Andre; and the choice of almond bread pudding or ice cream. I opted for the cheese, which offered a great cross-section of flavours and textures, especially when paired with a glass of port.

Dinner Service

A few hours out from Seoul we had a dinner service, this time commencing with a seasonal salad with tomato and cucumber with zesty lemon and olive oil dressing. This was followed by a choice of Korean-style beef bulgogi, served with steamed rice and mushrooms; ricotta cheese-stuffed chicken breast wrapped in bacon and served with mashed potato and steamed vegetables; and an udon noodle soup with seafood and vegetables, served with traditional sides.

Having had the bulgogi before, and finding it a bit bland, I went with the chicken, which was a moreish comfort dish that sated both mind and soul, although it could have been plated a little more elegantly. I paired this with a Johnnie Walker gold and soda.

Service

I’ve often felt that Korean Air’s service levels have dropped over the years and while they are still a league ahead of many North American and European, there is certainly a robotic nature to the way the crew do things and respond to requests and this flight was no exception. There were no smiles, no idle chit chat, just automatons going through the motions in stiff cream and turquoise uniforms. That said, the crew were quick and efficient during the meal service, and that’s always great as it allows passengers to make the most of the free time to sleep or watch a movie.

Entertainment

The seat features a 23-inch personal monitor, which doesn’t seem so big when it’s at the other end of the seat but is more than ample for private viewing. While its touch-sensitive, there’s no point in reaching out each time you want to select something when you have the 3.7-inch screen on the armrest remote control to do it for you. The selection of films and television shows was adequate though a little eclectic and conservative – nothing to write home about but enough to keep you distracted.

Summary

Korean Air has invested in new aircraft but still hasn’t climbed back to the lofty position it once held among the world’s top airlines and further work is required on both hardware and software if the carrier wants to once again be an industry leader.

Korean Air Toronto-Seoul return in Prestige business class from US$4,774 per person. 

Note: The author travelled on a full fare business class ticket without the airline’s knowledge.

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