A quiet estate by the banks of the Ping River, 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai is a modern boutique hotel steeped in colonial-era history, discovers Gayatri Bhaumik.

Since opening in December 2011, 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai has offered discerning travellers an indulgent boutique experience in the heart of this northern Thai city. This year, the property elevated its offerings after completing a nine-month renovation.

The result is a sumptuous 21st-century property liberally laced with creature comforts, responsive service, and a high attention to detail, all permeated by a strong sense of history, making it an ideal locale for corporate escapes, incentives, and intimate gatherings beyond the boardroom.

A Touch of Heritage

The heart of the property is an old teak house with – you guessed it – 137 pillars. Once the residence of the manager of the East Borneo Company, the house has been restored to its former glory and now features an airy parlour, a fine-dining restaurant, and an intimate bar and library.

It’s the house that gives 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai its rich history, and the hotel plays to this with plenty of references to the East Borneo Company and the local teak industry. It’s almost a game for guests to discover all of these references during their stay.

For those that really want to indulge their inner history geek, the property recently launched a “Tales of the Teak Wallahs” tour that traces the footsteps of the East Borneo Company and the Chiang Mai teak industry. It’s not for everyone, as there are some long bouts of storytelling and very quick glimpses at historic yet dilapidated buildings. However, the tour does involve some compelling stops such as the Wat Ket Museum – started by Jack Bain, son of one-time Company director William Bain – the Chiang Mai Gymkhana Club, and Ban Sao Nak, a well-maintained traditional wooden house from 1895.

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Suite Escapes

There are 30 swanky suites at 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai; these are divided over four categories, each of which has a Company-related name. I check into an East Borneo Suite and find it effortlessly pulls colonial-era design into the 21^st century then adds a luxurious gloss.

The bedroom features teak floors, white-washed window shutters, and heavy silk draperies by Jim Thompson that sport custom elephant motifs. A super king bed takes centre stage – turndown service includes chamomile tea and cookies to ensure a good night’s sleep – and is flanked by a wooden cabinet pulling double duty as a minibar and nightstand, and a chic drinks trolley stocked with all the cocktail hour essentials. Sliding glass doors open onto an expansive terrace set up with a plush day bed and rocking chair that offer serene views of the property’s gardens.

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The dressing room and bathroom practically force you to linger as you get ready for the day. There’s a spacious walk-in wardrobe; double vanities with marble sinks; a freestanding roll-top bath set on patterned tiles; indoor/outdoor rain showers stocked with Panpuri amenities; and even a rattan rocking chair to sit in, in case making yourself presentable gets to be a little too much.

Each suite also comes with 24/7 butler service. At check-in, your butler’s number is entered into your phone, and you can communicate any request by sending a message – this was pretty handy when a last-minute laundry service was needed.

Gourmet Delights

At this property, guests are treated to a never-ending array of gourmet offerings. Breakfast is served in the whimsical Dining Room and its adjacent terrace; the buffet spread is stocked with pastries, fruits, and everything from eggs to noodles. During the rest of the day, the Dining Room offers an extensive menu of expertly-rendered Thai cuisine, including Kao Soy – a piquant local curry with crispy noodles – and what might be the best mango and sticky rice desserts you’ll ever have.

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A lavish space bedecked with local art, Palette is an intimate fine-dining restaurant serving an array of Western dishes. Hotel guests can also book it out for private dining and arrange custom menus with a selection of Thai or European dishes. Across the way, the gentleman’s club-style Jack Bain bar is the perfect spot for an aperitif or nightcap – try the signature Garden cocktail.

Despite the hotel’s many offerings, there’s perhaps no more indulgent gourmet experience than afternoon tea. The feast of delicately prepared sweets, savouries and scones – infused with light Thai touches and served with pots of tea and glasses of Champagne – is best enjoyed in the elegant Parlour of the old house.

Things to Do

Ready to relax? Slip into the Nitra Spa for one of its indulgent treatments – the aromatherapy massage will put you to sleep while soothing achy muscles – or soak up the sun on a lounger by the infinity pool set under a massive garden wall.

If you want to get off-site, the property can arrange that, too. Elephant experiences have become a sensitive subject these days, but 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai can arrange a visit to Patara Elephant Farm so you can get close to these gentle giants in an ethically-friendly way. You’ll spend half a day feeding, bathing and looking after your very own elephant.

The Verdict

There’s plenty of history to sink your teeth into, but you don’t have to be a history buff to stay at 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai. With gourmet treats, pampering wellness offerings, attentive service, and plenty of excursions, there’s something for everyone here.

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