Restaurant Review: Louise
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Overall
Summary: With Louise, chef Julien Royer brings his exquisite French cuisine to Hong Kong.
4.5great

For business travellers in Hong Kong, it can be tough to find a work-friendly restaurant that balances great food with a comfortable ambiance, good service, and a price point that won’t have the company execs cutting off your expense account. But Louise, a chic new restaurant at PMQ, checks all the right boxes.

French Flair

Singapore’s Odette has been winning awards all over the place recently and now the restaurant’s chef/owner, Julien Royer, is bringing his much-lauded cuisine to Hong Kong. Louise is a collaboration between Royer and JIA Group, and guests are invited to enjoy a stylish, intimate dining experience that’s like almost like eating a friend’s rather exquisite home.

Which is understandable, since the interiors have been created by designer-of-the-moment Andre Fu, who has also done The Upper House and The St. Regis Hong Kong. This duplex concept features a cosy bar area downstairs that’s perfect for after-work cocktails or a drinks meeting, and a bright upstairs dining room that’s flooded with natural light and is quiet enough to talk shop. The theatrical open kitchen and staging area means you’ll have another talking point too, in case negotiations stall.

Staff here are attentive and knowledgeable, so every need will be attended to quickly, and you’ll have a little help selecting a great wine that’ll impress the clients.

Traditional French with a Modern Twist

louise-hong-kong-dessert

The menu here concentrates on traditional French cuisine rendered in 21st-century style. The perfectly executed dishes are a collaboration between Royer and executive chef Franckelie Laloum, and with two Michelin-starred chefs at the helm, you know the food here is going to be good.

For lunch, a snappy two-course menu or longer three-course version are available, and both allow diners to experience the best of the restaurant’s a la carte menu.

Start with the smoked organic egg with potato, chorizo, and buckwheat. Inspired by Odette’s signature dish, this appetiser is a wonderful surprise, rich in flavours and textures, and perfectly portioned so as not to overwhelm.

A Home for Beef Lovers

The carnivorous should try the beef cheek for their main. The kitchen marinates the beef for 24 hours, then slow-cooks it for five hours; the result is a decadent red wine jus and meat so tender it could be eaten with a fork.

If you’re tempted to skip dessert – don’t. While there’s a cheese plate and other items on offer, you’ll want to order the “Mama Royer” yogurt cake with yogurt ice cream and confit lemon. Made to Royer’s grandma’s recipe, the dessert is light, not too sweet, and combines interesting textures. It’s a must-try.

Need to Know

Book well in advance if you plan to dine at Louise. Perhaps it’s a result of Odette’s success, but the restaurant is already packed and reservations are hard to come by.

The Last Word

Restaurants are dime a dozen in Hong Kong, but a really stellar one that’s worth going back to? That’s much rare. Louise was much hyped ahead of its opening, but it was worth the wait. We’d argue that this is probably one of the best restaurants to have opened in Harbour City in recent months.

See our other restaurant reviews for other dining ideas across Asia.

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About the Author

Gayatri Bhaumik

Always ready for her next adventure, Gayatri Bhaumik took her first flight
at 10 days old and hasn’t looked back since. After long stints in Bangkok,
Melbourne and London, she now based in Hong Kong where she's the Group Editor at Artemis Communications.